Puppy Behavior
here you will find everything about puppy behavior like: puppy behavior, dog behavior, puppy behavior
modification, aggressive puppy behavior, puppy interactive behavior, puppy
training behavior leash Longinus, puppy behavior training pet centric, Puppy
behavior advice, puppy behavior books, puppy behavior tips, puppy behavior
learning.
Aggressive Puppy Behavior
The
worse thing that can happen is if your puppy develops puppy behavior problems.
It is your job to nip it in the bud before it gets to out of hand, because
before you know it, things will be way out of your control, and your puppy will
run your life, and it will be the master, not you.
There are many puppy behavior problems that I will discuss here, all of them
are the most common ones that develop and tend to get out of control, and even
dangerous.
Leaving your Puppy - Puppy Interactive Behavior
If you work, don’t go directly to his crate
when you get home, though this is very tempting. If your puppy whines, cries,
barks or howls, leave him in the crate until he has calmed down. Then, release
him, lavish him with praise and take him out.
Consider having a family member, friend or
neighbor look in on your puppy if you are away all day. Have the person take
him to his outdoor bathroom and for a little walk. Possibly they could play
with him for a while before putting him back in the crate. Instruct them to put
your puppy back into the crate and leave without any fuss. This is very
important. Fussing over a dog that is already anxious will only make him worse.
Try to stay on schedule as much as possible.
That way your puppy will know when you are coming home. Dogs have a knack for
telling time and after you’ve returned home at that same time for a few days,
he will look forward to your arrival.
You
may see your puppy develop nervous or even aggressive behavior and this may
even depend on the breed or genetic predisposition of your puppy. Fear is a
behavior trait that is often quite evident between the ages of 16-19 weeks.
Don’t be afraid to seek professional help from puppy training classes. It is
often a misconception when dog owners feel that they have failed when they take
their puppy to training classes. This is really not the case as it is a
fantastic opportunity to seek expert advice, socialize your puppy with other
dogs of different ages and sizes and you ask other owners questions that you
may not normally have the opportunity to ask.
Although you started puppy socialization during the ages of 8-11 weeks you may
see your puppy develop a fear of objects, traffic, people or other animals that
he seemed fine with before. You need to remain a strong leader and be fair and
consistent in all of your puppy training. Expect your puppy to find ever more
increasing ways to misbehave especially when he is left on his own in the
House. Your puppy may become destructive and bark when you are out of the
House. These are all early warning signs of anxiety and even separation
anxiety. To help conquer this you need to make sure that you start leaving the
House for short periods during the day. If your puppy sees you leave the House
at the same time everyday he may develop anxiety every time you leave. Stop
jangling your keys or making a big deal about it when you leave the House – by
leaving the House little and often you will get your puppy more used to being
left alone. A good tip is to ignore your puppy for up to 20 minutes before
leaving the House.
Step to Perfect Puppy Behavior Training - Puppy Behavior Advice
Puppy Training Behavior - Puppy Behavior Learning
Very often the mistake that is made
by the typical puppy owner is to wait too long before beginning training. Puppy
behavior problems can develop very quickly and it is best to take a proactive
approach to not let those puppy behaviors begin in the first place.
Obviously you can't expect perfect behavior
at the tender age of eight weeks or twelve weeks of age but there are several
things that you can start training right away. Begin puppy housebreaking the
moment you bring your young dog home. Make sure to supervise your puppy by
using a leash or a crate so that he can't develop bad habits. Dog potty issues
are not fun to fix as the dog matures, it is best to avoid them from occurring
in the first place.
You can also begin to train puppy manners.
These are things like teaching your dog to not jump, nip, chew, etc. The more
your puppy does these behaviors when he is young the more reinforced they
become. Be firm but fair in teaching your pup to be respectful of your home and
family.
Your puppy isn't going to be perfectly
trained tomorrow, but he can definitely be better tomorrow than he is today.
Expect daily improvement and train accordingly. Don't make the excuse that your
dog is just a puppy so behavior problems are okay. They aren't okay and
shouldn't be treated as such.
If you can have these ideas in mind when you engage in puppy training you will find yourself capable of ridding yourself of puppy behavior problems in no time.
"Transform Your Stubborn, Out-Of-Control Dog Or Puppy Into A Well-Trained, Loyal And Affectionate 'Best Friend' That Obeys Your Every Command — And Start Seeing Results The Very First Day!"
This amazingly simple,
step-by-step training
system
|
Puppy behavior modification |
| Nipping - the playful biting and mouthing of your hands and clothes by your
dog - is particularly common among puppies, but can also occur in older dogs
that haven't been taught proper bite inhibition. It's natural for dogs to mouth
and nip. They explore the world using their mouths - to a dog, his mouth is as
important as eyes and hands are to us. Nipping is very different from true
aggression: it's a form of communication, interaction, exploration, and play.
From birth, pups use their mouths to explore the den, their mother, and their
littermates. From a few weeks old, they use their mouths to play with their
siblings: puppies play by biting and mouthing each other. Some adult dogs -
usually, those with owners who encourage rough play, or who were removed from
the litter at too early an age - retain these same tendencies to nip during play
and in moments of emotional duress. Sibling play is actually how young pups
learn a very important lesson, called bite inhibition. Puppy Interactive Behavior If a puppy bites another puppy too hard, the other pup yelps loudly in pain and stops playing with him. This teaches the biter that such a degree of bite force results in an undesirable outcome: social isolation. When other puppies bite him, that's how he learns what that pain feels like. (This is one of the reasons that puppies removed from the litter too early are often 'maladjusted' - they've missed out on some of the important lessons their mother and littermates have to teach). Even pups that have learned basic bite inhibition from their siblings usually need to be reconditioned again upon entering their new home: humans are much more easily damaged than dogs, so it's necessary for us to intervene and refine the puppy's bite pressure even further. A dog without any concept of bite inhibition is both annoying and dangerous to have around: a harmless play session can rapidly turn into painful ordeal. Puppies aren't capable of inflicting serious damage - although their little teeth are razor sharp, their jaws are too weak to do much more than elicit a trickle of blood - but an adult dog can do a great deal more than just scratch the surface, and it makes very little difference to a wounded human that the dog "didn't mean to do it"! Here's what to do to teach your dog good bite inhibition. Note: this same technique is applicable to older dogs, although the same results may take a little longer to attain. - When playing with your puppy or dog, you'll need to choose the level of mouthing that you're prepared to accept. Some owners are content for their dogs to touch their hands with their teeth, as long as no pressure is exerted; others (particularly those with large, strong-jawed dogs) prefer to get the message across that no tooth-contact is acceptable whatsoever. - Whenever you reach your level of tolerance with your pup - he might give you a good nip, or he might just grab your fingers gently in his mouth - squeal shrilly and loudly in pain and immediately turn your entire body away from him. Get up and walk a few paces away from him, keeping your face and eyes averted. Don't speak to him, and don't touch him. The aim here is for the puppy to be completely socially isolated for the next 20 to 30 seconds - long enough for the lesson to sink in, but not long enough for him to forget what it was that elicited such a response and start playing with something else. (Note: if there are other people present, you'll need to ensure that they mimic your behavior here - don't allow them to start playing with or otherwise paying attention to the puppy or dog, or else all your good work will have been undone). Need to Chew - Puppy Behavior Training Pet Centric  Most young dogs, and some older ones, seem to have an innate need to chew something - anything! - whenever they're being played with or petted. To keep the focus off your hands, and prevent him from learning what a delightful chew toy your fingers make, supply him with a more appropriate chew: anything with a slight give to it should do the trick. Rawhide bones, pigs' ears, or squeezy rubber toys all go down a treat. - If he should start snapping for your hands or face while playing, correct him quickly with a sharp, "No!", or "AH-ah-aaah!" He should stop, startled. As soon as he stops, praise him (you're praising the stopping, not the original behavior - don't be confused by their close proximity) and then quickly redirect his attention to an appropriate chew. When his jaws close around it, praise him again and give him a pat. - Never use physical force to correct your dog for inappropriate chewing or mouthing. Not only is it mostly unnecessary, but in most cases it will actually encourage further nipping and biting. The cold-shoulder technique (as outlined above) is the most effective, and humane, manner of conveying your displeasure to your dog. He wants to please you: he just has to figure out how to do so. He has a much better chance of doing so if you refrain from corporal punishment and give him 30 seconds of isolation instead. - If your dog's getting really revved up and is making repeated attempts to nip you, despite cold-shouldering him, he might need to cool down a bit. In this case, the 'time out' method is appropriate: take him to his crate, or to a small room by himself, and leave him there for five minutes to chill out a bit. When it's time to bring him back into the heart of the household, you can start playing again - just try to tone it down a notch or two until you're sure he can tolerate the play without further nipping. - For a dog that needs little encouragement to become overexcited and mouthy (high-energy herding breeds in particular are prone to this), choose non-contact play whenever feasible. Frisbee and fetch are great choices; even tug-of-war, provided your dog knows a reliable 'drop it' command, is suitable. Avoid rough play like slap-boxing (where you hit the sides of a dog's face gently with open palms) and full-on wrestling at all costs: these games encourage nipping, but also call a dog's instinctive aggression into the mix, which is something to be avoided. Keep games friendly and low-key instead. For more information For further information on typical doggie behavior, including a fantastic resource for training how-to's and loads of detailed information on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors, check out Secrets to Dog Training. Written by a professional dog-trainer, it's an absorbing guide that deals with all the subjects a responsible dog-owner could ever want to know about - well worth a look. To visit Secrets to Dog Training, just click on the link below |
