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Dogs can be your best
friend now more than ever because they sure feel good laying across your
lap. Especially when its really cold out and you are watching
tv! It's hard to beat that kind of warmth. I don't
know if its the actual heat or the love and companionship. But in any
case, it is great in my opinion! The only problem is-it is hard to
get up when your favorite dog is nettled on your lap and you really want to get
up.
Cold can be tough on us all. But we still
throw a light jacket on our cocker spaniels and go ahead with our daily
walks on all but the most bitter cold. The long hair on cocker spaniels
is prone to snow balling up on it- but its still worth it. Our dogs know
just about exactly when it is time to go for a w-a-l-k. Spell it or
whisper it- it doesn't matter- they know exactly what you are talking
about. And just try to tell them it is too cold out or too rainy!
Seriously, please take care that your dogs are not too cold and even check
their feet because crusty snow can cut their feet really fast. We even
let the hair grow longer on their feet now because they have cut the pads
on their feet walking on snow and frozen ground. They don't
complain. They will just start licking the cuts and that is too late to
notice this type of thing. In any case, please
don't quit walks completely if at all possible. Dogs need this. I
think we humans need it just as bad. Leave the cell phone and just enjoy
30 minutes of clean air and a little exercise.
Dog Agility Training Recall:

The single most important thing you can
have when starting agility is a solid recall command. Although you'll generally
learn each obstacle on-lead, very quickly you'll be working your dog off-lead.
When your pup gets that "wild hare" going, you'll want to be able to
get him/her back without having to run all over creation. You'll actually want
two flavors of recall for agility: the obedience recall (come and sit at my
feet), and the "casual" recall (move in my general direction until I
give you something else to do). You'll want two different words - in my house,
"come" is the casual recall, and "here" is the obedience
recall.
Dog Agility Training Distance:

On the agility course, your dog will have
to be able to work at a distance from you. The more distance you have, the less
you as a handler have to run! Rio (my adult Agile Leo) has a real problem
working away from me, so I'm starting Zadi early on an "out" command,
which means "go away from me." You can use any word you like, keeping
in mind that you'll have to gasp it out at speed someday. One way to teach the
"out" command is to place a toy or food on the ground. Walk the pup
some distance away, and put him on a stay. You continue to walk farther, so the
dog is between you and the treat. Release the dog from the stay, then add the
word "Out!" (or your chosen command). Mastering this is pretty easy -
what's more exciting, food or Mom? Vary it with a recall, so sometimes the dog
comes to you, sometimes the dog goes to the treat, but always on command.
Dog Agility Training Directions:

Running in a straight line is easy for a
dog. Learning to curve to the left or right on command is another story, but
you'll need these commands in agility. You can teach an actual "left"
and "right" command, or you can teach something more vague that moves
the dog in reference to your body position. Since I can't tell my right from my
left anyway, I find the latter much easier.
You
can start by using a recall around an obstacle (a chair, a table - something
the dog has to go around, not over). Put your dog on a stay at some distance
from the obstacle. Then stand at an angle to the obstacle, so there's a
"near" side and a "far" side. When you first start, make
the angle very small, so your dog won't always choose the obviously shorter
path. Call the dog. When she chooses the "far" side, shout your
direction command ("out" or "waytome" or the appropriate
specific direction.) Whe she chooses the "near" side, shout your direction
command ("come" or "here" or "comeby" or
whatever).
The
next step is to increase the angle so the "near" and "far"
is clearer. Once your dog has the idea that the commands mean something, start
adding hand signals. Why hand signals? Two reasons: 1) On the course, you may
be gasping for air just when your dog needs direction. 2) Dogs follow body
language much more than they follow verbal commands. Vary between using voice,
using voice and hand, and using hand alone. As your dog develops understanding,
you can set up several obstructions, and try to guide your dog around them
solely with commands. This is hard.
Moving with your dog:

Okay, this may be
obvious, but if you haven't taught your dog to run with you (as opposed to
under you!), you can potentially injure yourself and/or your dog by colliding
at speed or tripping over each other. Start with straight lines. Then add
curves. Then place that chair or table in your line and run around it. Then add
your commands so sometimes the dog passes on the same side, and sometimes
passes on the opposite side. Work your distance commands by slowing down but
encouraging your dog to "get out" and keep going around the obstacle.
"Transform Your Stubborn, Out-Of-Control Dog Or Puppy Into A Well-Trained, Loyal And Affectionate 'Best Friend' That Obeys Your Every Command — And Start Seeing Results The Very First Day!"
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